Garum

Garum held a place in ancient cuisine comparable to that of salt or oil, present on nearly every table, from the most modest to the most lavish. Its use dates back to the Greek cities of the Black Sea and Ionia, which were already producing fermented fish sauces before Rome turned it into an industry of imperial scale. Major production centers, such as Pompeii, Carthage, or Gades on the Atlantic coast of present-day Spain, exported their products in amphorae marked with their origin, evidence of a genuine economy built around this condiment. Several grades existed depending on the quality of the fish and fermentation time, with the finest garum reserved for wealthy tables while coarser versions, such as allec, fed the common people. Its production, lengthy and pungent, took place away from dwellings in open-air workshops called cetariae, where the heat of the Mediterranean sun played an essential role in fermentation.

• 3 kg whole small fish (anchovies, sardines, or mackerel)
• 1 kg fish entrails, heads, and scraps
• 1 kg coarse unrefined sea salt
• Dried aromatic herbs (dill, coriander) in small quantities, according to variation
• Seawater or brine to adjust consistency

1. Arrange in a stone trough or large jar a layer of whole fish and fish scraps, alternating with a generous layer of coarse salt.
2. Repeat the operation until the container is full, finishing with a layer of salt that seals the mixture.
3. Leave the entire mixture uncovered in the sun, stirring the contents daily with a stick during the first few weeks.
4. Continue fermentation for two to three months, until the flesh decomposes entirely under the effect of salt and heat.
5. Collect the liquid that forms naturally at the bottom of the container, filtering it through a woven basket or tightly woven cloth.
6. Pour the clarified liquid into amphorae intended for storage or transport, letting it rest for a few more days before use.

Garum appears as an amber to brown liquid, intensely salty with a powerful, long-fermented aroma, reminiscent of certain fish sauces still used today in Southeast Asia. Its deep umami taste, both marine and slightly iodic, served to enhance and bind preparations rather than to be consumed alone. The odor, very pronounced during production, mellowed after filtration and aging in amphorae.